New Amp: Ceriatone King Kong 50

I’ve been looking for one of these on and off since the Chupacabra first hit the scene almost a decade ago. I really should’ve ordered one way sooner - but something about waiting 6-8 weeks bothered me. That was a pretty dumb attitude to have because I waited far more than that to get one, and I frequently saw them listed for sale for nearly brand new prices.

I finally located one - priced less than a brand new one - so I jumped on it. I have to say, I am extremely impressed. This may be one of if not the best amp in my entire collection. It can be dialed so many different ways and can really authentically capture classic Marshall tones, flip a few switches and it’s into 80s metal territory or further which is perfect for me. I’m very impressed with this amp and it is certainly a keeper. I think it’s time I looked at a few other Ceriatone models - the DZ30 and AH50 Deluxe both really pique my interest.

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New Amp: Marshall 2555x Silver Jubilee Reissue... again

I felt that I didn’t really give his amp a proper chance, so here I am trying it again… and at a better price than I paid for the first one as an added bonus!

My first impression is that it’s very meh through my vintage G12T-75’s, which I love for most things. However, it comes alive through Vintage-30’s…. no surprise there as it was designed with that speaker in mind and Jubilee cabinets come equipped with those from factory.

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I’ve since rewired my cabinet so I no longer have the G12H-100 connected that I initially played this amp through the first time I had one. I still think that’s a great speaker and I’ll have to try it back to back with the V30’s and see how it performs with this amp. The more I collect amps, the more I am finding that certain amps just don’t get along with certain speakers.

New Amp: 2x Marshall JCM900 Mk III - 50w and 100w

Two lovely new Marshalls arrived this week - a pair of JCM900 Mk III’s. I have had the model 2501 for a while (50w Mk III 1x12 combo), and love it, but I’ve been trying to get away from combo amps and keep the heads instead. I spotted a Mk III for a good price on Guitar Center’s listings, so I pulled the trigger. Then the very next day, another one, this time even cheaper! I figured I could return the other one if necessary, so I ordered that one too.

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The first one arrived and ended up being a 2500 model, 50 watter. It’s in pretty rough shape both externally and has a loose tube socket rivet, which makes it a big question mark even at the price I got it for… I have some time in the return period to decide. I’ve already spent some time cleaning it up and it does sound great, however.

The second arrived a day later, a 2100 model, 100 watter. I have no preference between 50w and 100w, but since I have the SL-X and a 100w JCM800 2203, I think it’d be cool to have all three of them in 100w form, even if just for the sake of comparison. This one is much cleaner condition wise - hardly any rust at all. On a closer inspection, this head shell has been recovered - a few spots lifting on the back but overall a quality tolex job though it doesn’t match the factory Marshall material. The main pause on this unit is the grid resistors for the power tubes clearly burned out internally - there are some burn marks on the PCB and it has had a professional repair internally - the resistors are now mounted directly to the power tubes like a vintage Marshall would have done. A fuse was also moved to a holder for easier replacement - overall good modifications though I wish the scarring inside weren’t so visible, just for the sake of possibly selling it on later.

After some extensive A/B testing, the 50w is brighter but punchier, but overall I think the 100w has a slight edge on the tone - but that might also be related to the replaced/new components internally (it also has several new caps - I checked the values and they are the same as the factory schematic) which warm it up a bit more. The jury is still out on these two but I’m leaning towards keeping the 100w and sending back the 50w, and someone who appreciates these will get a good deal on it.

New Guitar: Kramer Stagemaster Mach II - Flat Top

Another awesome neck-through Kramer added to the collection, and in the same exact color as my arch top Mach II Stagemaster! This color in the catalogs was called “Rose,” it’s essentially a transparent coral/salmon color. It’s a beauty - and really cool to have both flat top and arch top variations of the same guitar. I’m a big fan of EMG’s and this one is equipped with the common 81/SA/SA combination, a modification I probably wouldn’t have done myself but I’m pleased with anyway. The previous owner also added an extra, non-matching knob in place of the coil tap switch. That won’t do, so I’ll be fixing that up shortly, perhaps a vintage EMG 89 would be a great addition here, and I could keep the stock looking coil tap switch, assuming there’s no major damage under the finish where the new knob was added.

Here are some pictures comparing the flat top to the arch top.

New Guitar: Ibanez 540S Carribean Blue

Picked up this guitar from Guitar Center - again - labeled as a “540S.” This is certainly an interesting combination and one I’m still trying to figure out - it’s a 1989 Carribean Blue 540S body, complete with the Bensalem PA neck plate (blank serial number), but the neck has a serial number dating it to 1996. Even more interesting, the neck has the “S series” badging, and abalone inlays - but they are dots instead of ovals. Also, it is not an all-access neck joint… from my digging, any S series guitar with a Fujigen made neck after about 1993 should have this neck joint type. I can’t find any stock 1996 S series guitar - even in Japan or European catalogs - that has abalone ovals and a traditional neck joint.

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I also took some measurements, it is Wizard dimensions as well - and a very high quality build with the flat 17” fretboard just like my others. I’m not sure what to make of this neck, but strange features and history aside, it is an amazing player like any of my other Ibanez guitars. It’s not hard to imagine why Ibanez was able to weather the storm during the 90s while many of their competitors struggled, got bought out, or went overseas during the same period.

New Guitar: 1990 ESP Horizon Deluxe

Here’s a pretty unique one - a Bolt-on neck Horizon. Picked this up browsing Guitar Center’s listings for a fair price, and it has a really sweet arched top body shape with a great neck.

This also has a later iteration of the Sinclair bridge, ESP’s take on the Floyd Rose. These are great bridges, just as good as any OFR but with one major flaw - the saddles have offset screw holes and no one I can find makes replacement saddles. So don’t break one!

To make matters worse, the angular shape of the base plate on the Sinclair means a Floyd, Gotoh, or Edge trem will not just drop in - the body needs to be routed to fit a more squared-off base plate. I’ve seen too many hack-jobs over the years where someone tried to make a different bridge fit. I’m lucky and have a spare Sinclair bridge with 5 good saddles on it, so if I ever break one I have a few - but I understand most people who own these vintage ESP’s wouldn’t have access to that. If anyone happens to know a shop that can build a replica saddle based on a sample, please let me know and I’d be happy to supply some saddles from my spare to get it made… I’d love to keep this bridges alive into the future.



New Guitar: 1982 Kramer "The Pacer"

I have wanted a Kramer with the Rockinger bridge for a while. I know it’s an objectively inferior tremolo to a Floyd Rose, but since it was the original “Edward Van Halen Tremolo,” it has a certain value from a historical/collector’s standpoint - and that’s me.

I watched this one sit unsold for over a month, wondering when and if it would sell and at what price. Eventually it came down and I had to consider it - so I made a deal on it.

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Not only is this my first guitar with a Rockinger, but it’s also the first guitar I’ve owned with the traditional strat configuration of three single coil pickups. Most of the music I play calls for a humbucker in the bridge position, so this guitar won’t be the most versatile, but after playing it I have sorely been missing the positions 2 and 4 “quack” - and a split humbucker does not have the same snap that a true single coil has in this position for sure. Coupled with a clean amp, and occasionally switching on a light overdrive, there are so many great tones in this guitar.

The condition is excellent with only a couple of small dings - sadly the largest of which came from a loose screw inside the case during shipping. It also included the original warranty card, case keys, and inspection tag - very cool. Despite collecting tons of Kramers over the years, I’ve yet to get a set of these so that’s really cool to have.

New Amp: Kasha Rockmod 50 Head

I spotted this online for what seemed like an incredible price for a USA made boutique amp with top of the line components. I’ve had a few smaller name amps and been really blown away by them (PWE) and some that were awful (Kruse) so I really didn’t know what to expect here.

I know it’s a cliche, but all I can say is “wow!” This is a great sounding amp, really amazing tones. Channel 1 is a very full sounding clean tone, not too sparkly but reminds me the Normal channel on a plexi. Channel 2 is crunch, and with the gain about half does a great single channel JCM800 impression with a lot of brightness and grit just like the real one sitting only a few feet away. Channel 3 is the highlight for me, of course, as a fan of high gain tones. It keeps the same core tone going from the previous channel, but now you have a standard “gain” control as well as one titled “post” which effectively is a saturation control. Tweaking these two controls back and forth already results in a variety of great tones before even touching the EQ. Count me a big fan of this amp, and it looks great with so many tubes inside through the mesh front panel, and the HUGE Mercury Magnetics transformers inside.

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Another really awesome feature, which I can’t wait to play around with more, is a switch on the front panel called “OT,” short for Output Tubes. It allows you to select from A or B right on the front panel - and all tubes are running so you can switch while playing and really hear the differences between them. Basically, you can put in two different pairs of power tubes, say 6L6 and EL34, and swap between them. Currently, it has a pair of 6550’s and a pair of EL34’s, and it’s very cool to hear the differences between those. This is what I expected from the Egnater Renegade, but was disappointed in the preamp section of that amp even though the blendable power section was cool. While the Rockmod doesn’t allow me to blend the two tube types, the preamp section is fantastic so I’m totally happy with this feature.